Short answer: Climbing for beginners usually starts with bouldering or top-rope climbing, either in a gym or outdoors with a guide. Bouldering needs only shoes, chalk, and a pad or gym mats. Top-roping adds a harness, locking carabiner, belay device, and rope. Take an intro class, learn belay checks, and start on easy grades.
Climbing for beginners can look gear-heavy and technical from the ground. It is less complicated than it looks once you know the main styles, what each needs, and the checks that keep people safe. This guide covers all three, plus how routes are graded and how climbing works at the Olympics.
What are the main types of climbing?
Bouldering. Short climbs, called problems, done without a rope. REI notes that most problems only take you as high as you can comfortably jump off, and that bouldering needs the least specialized gear and technical knowledge of any style.
Top-rope climbing. The climber ties into one end of a rope that runs through an anchor at the top of the route. A belayer uses a belay device to take in slack and keep the rope taut, which keeps a fall short.
Sport lead climbing. On outdoor sport routes, bolts are drilled into the rock and the climber clips quickdraws to them while climbing. With no top anchor holding the rope, a lead climber falls farther than on top-rope. Many climbers practice with "mock leading," clipping bolts while also on a top rope.
Trad and other advanced styles. REI lists trad climbing and aid climbing as later steps once you are comfortable with the basics.
Which style should a beginner start with?
REI names top-roping and bouldering as some of the best places to start. Indoor bouldering has the lowest barrier to entry: sign a waiver, take a short orientation, and try beginner problems. Indoor top-roping needs an experienced belayer, which can be a staff member, a friend with a belay certification, or an auto-belay device.
What gear do you need for each style?
| Style | Gear |
|---|---|
| Indoor bouldering | Comfortable clothes, climbing shoes, chalk |
| Outdoor bouldering | Shoes, chalk bag, crash pad, experienced spotters |
| Top-rope | Shoes, chalk, clothes, harness, locking carabiner, belay device, rope (gyms usually provide the rope) |
| Outdoor roped climbing | All of the above plus a climbing helmet |
A few gear notes from REI:
- Shoes should fit snugly but not painfully tight.
- Belay devices come in two common styles, tube-style and assisted-braking. Assisted-braking devices give a backup if the belayer loses control of the brake, so REI recommends them for extra security.
- Chalk absorbs sweat on your hands. Some gyms and crags restrict chalk or allow only certain types, so check local rules.
- Inspect gear before every climb, owned or rented. Don't borrow hardware or safety gear unless you know its full history.
What safety skills should you learn first?
An intro top-rope course typically covers gear, knots, belay checks, climbing commands, belaying, and basic movement:
- The figure-8 follow-through, the knot climbers most commonly use to tie into the rope.
- Belay checks before every climb: tie-in knot, belay device, harnesses, and helmets.
- Commands, the set phrases climber and belayer use to communicate.
- Belaying: keeping the rope tight, catching a fall, and lowering the climber.
- Footwork. Instructors teach you to use your legs as much as possible, not just your arms.
After a class, many gyms offer a top-rope belay test. Passing it lets you use indoor top ropes without staff help.
How are climbing routes graded?
In the US, roped routes use the Yosemite Decimal System, which runs from 5.0 to 5.15 for technical climbing. Per REI's broad breakdown, 5.1 to 5.5 are easier routes, 5.6 to 5.10 cover intermediate to hard, and 5.11 to 5.15 are the most difficult. Grades from 5.10 up can add a, b, c, or d. Boulder problems in the US mostly use the V scale, which starts at VB for beginner problems, then V0, and is open-ended. REI's bouldering guide lists V17 as the hardest grade so far, with only a couple of problems at that level.
How does climbing work at the Olympics?
Sport climbing made its Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020 with one combined event per gender covering boulder, lead, and speed. Paris 2024 split it into two events per gender: speed, and boulder and lead combined. For Los Angeles 2028, the IOC approved six events, so boulder, lead, and speed will each have their own medals for men and women.
How do you move from the gym to real rock?
REI's advice is to start with a certified guide or qualified instructor. Outdoors, holds aren't marked, so instructors usually start you on easier grades than you climb indoors. Climbers are also asked to follow the Access Fund's Pact, which includes staying on established trails, cleaning up chalk and tick marks, and packing out all trash.
FAQ
What is the best type of climbing for beginners?
REI names top-rope climbing and bouldering, indoors or outside, as some of the best places to start.
What gear do I need for indoor bouldering?
Comfortable clothes, climbing shoes, and chalk. REI notes you can usually rent shoes at the gym.
What gear do I need for top-rope climbing?
Climbing shoes, chalk, and comfortable clothes, plus a harness, a locking carabiner, and a belay device. Outdoors, add a climbing helmet.
How are climbing routes graded in the US?
Roped routes use the Yosemite Decimal System, 5.0 to 5.15. Boulder problems mostly use the open-ended V scale, starting at VB and V0.
Keep climbing
For keeping your grip on the wall, read Liquid Chalk for Climbing. For pulling strength off the wall, see How to Set Your Grip Before the First Rep.